With warmer days upon us and summer nights stretching ahead, the desire
to grab lunch outside or dine under the stars bubbles up in all of us.
Fortunately, more and more local restaurants are ready to accommodate!
Never mind that our fair city
is ranked fifth in the
nation for particle pollution. We still take
pride and pleasure in our local outdoor dining.
Believe it or not, the ranking is actually good
news—we were in second place in 2009. And as we
progress downward in pollution levels, we are moving
up in the number of al fresco dining opportunities
in our neighborhoods.
Al fresco is Italian for “in the fresh air.” Perhaps
not by coincidence then is Italian-born Joe “Pino”
Mico one of the pioneers of this movement among
area restaurateurs.
Mico is executive chef and co-owner of Pino’s
Contemporary Italian restaurant in Point Breeze,
where he first opened a takeout and delivery pizzeria
in 1994. At that time, there were a few tables
inside where landscapers, contractors, and businesspeople
would eat lunch. When the climate
turned favorable, they would ask, “Hey Pino, do
you mind if we take a table out onto the sidewalk?”
Throughout the evening,
people would order at the counter
and sit at the tables outside. “They brought their
children on Radio Flyer wagons, they would bring
their own wine—and also their dogs,” recalls Mico’s
wife and co-owner, Jennifer Mico.
When the Micos launched a more upscale and
refined Pino’s in 2003, they offered outdoor dining
from the outset. Now six tables for two fit on the
sidewalk under an eight-foot awning extending from
the storefront, which opens with sliding panel doors.
And the dogs keep coming too. “The East End is a
very pet-friendly place, so you want to make that
available,” Jennifer Mico says.
Despite its Italian roots, dining al fresco translates
to any language and may be available in all seasons,
as is the case at Paris 66 in East Liberty. At any
time of year, when welcomed to a Parisian café, the
maître d’ will ask, “Voulez-vous manger à l’extérieur?”
(Would you like to eat outside?). “It may be cold,
but you just get dressed in your overcoat, scarf, hat, and you can enjoy being in Paris,” explains
French-born Fred Rongier, co-owner of Paris
66 with his wife, Lori.
Have no fear if you don’t like the cold—
the Rongiers converted a garage and grassy
plot behind their restaurant into a deck covered
with a weatherproof awning. Heaters and
fans make it comfortable year-round for 25 to
30 diners and private events, even during winter,
when clear vinyl is used to keep out cold
and snow.
The vinyl is removed for the summer,
allowing natural light and air to enter.
“Technically you are outside,” Rongier says.
“But we want to make sure people are comfortable.
People love to hear the rain coming
down. It’s very relaxing. However, they don’t
want to feel any of the elements of being
outside.”
But they do like the peace
and quiet of the outdoors—what
you find on the back patio of
ARTspace & Coffeehouse in
Point Breeze.
Amy Siebert and her husband,
Hemi Braunstein, of
Squirrel Hill, had always dreamed
of opening a romantic coffeehouse,
and upon seeing the outdoor
space behind a building on
Reynolds Street, they quit their
jobs and gave it a go. That was six
years ago.
“We have one of the most
unique spaces in the city because
we are off-street and off the beaten
path,” says Siebert, the chef for
the all-vegetarian operation.
“Then there is this passageway to
the back patio, and when people see it, they
are so surprised.”
The couple did the landscaping themselves.
“There is some sun, but it’s all shaded
naturally by the surrounding dogwoods,”
Siebert says. “With the perennials, something
is blooming from the beginning of spring all
the way through the fall. So it’s very peaceful—
a little bit of heaven.”
“If I have a free period, I can easily walk
over,” says Kristin LaPlace, a regular who
teaches nearby at The Ellis School. “I can sit in
the back in their beautiful little garden and
enjoy a great cup of coffee and a piece of their
carrot cake.”
Likewise, for Squirrel Hill resident James
Guttman, outdoor dining provides a temporary
respite from the clamor of city life. “Dining al fresco just reminds my wife and me
of being somewhere else,” he says. “Our house
is on the main route for the fire engines and
EMS trucks coming from the Squirrel Hill fire
and police station. So to us, al fresco dining is
getting away from the street noise, and one of
our favorite restaurants is Casbah.”
East Liberty-based big Burrito Restaurant
Group—which offers outdoor dining at
Casbah and Soba restaurants in Shadyside, as
well as Eleven and Kaya in the Strip District
and several Mad Mex locations—counts on
this kind of thinking. “As a business model, we
believe that people say, ‘You know what,
I’m going to go over to Soba and sit on the
deck.’ On a beautiful night, the food tastes
great, and that sort of drives the business,”
explains big Burrito corporate chef Bill
Fuller.
What also attracts customers, according
to Fuller, is upholding the quality of
the dining experience outside. “We really
try to treat these patios as part of the
restaurant,” he says. “Our vision is to keep
the décor and the tables and the chairs and
the service at the same level as inside.”
Outdoor dining can definitely help
a restaurant’s bottom line, says Erin
Stern, owner of Cornerstone Restaurant
& Bar in Aspinwall. Revenue there
increased by 30 percent after adding
seating for 40 on the Eastern Avenue
sidewalk. “We didn’t have it available
the summer of our first year in 2009, and then we saw a big jump all around for food and drink when we added
the outdoor seating last year,” she says.
It’s also free advertising. “The tables and umbrellas create a presence for us,”
Stern says. “We are in a high traffic area and our outdoor dining lets people know
that we are here and also lets our customers see people they know who may be
driving by.”
Most restaurants with exposed outdoor seating do not accept reservations for
those tables because of the unpredictability of the weather—and the patrons.
“People sitting outside tend to linger longer, and so we don’t know when they
are going to leave,” Stern says.
Squirrel Hill resident Connie Bernt likes to linger at the Café at the Frick at
the Frick Art & Historical Center in Point Breeze. “That’s an idyllic enclave in
the middle of a city,” Bernt says. “You are in a little park on the grounds of a historic
house, and it’s very picturesque. That’s what you need when you are dining
outside—a little scene like that. And we think the food is excellent.”
Café at the Frick focuses on fresh, locally grown ingredients. Very local. The
café grows much of its own produce—from eggplant to mustard greens—in its
on-site greenhouse and kitchen garden. “We are a scratch kitchen—you won’t
find any cans or jars,” manager Patrick Santillo says.
Being outside, one is more aware of the seasons, which drive the menu selections
at the Frick café and other restaurants with al fresco dining. “The seasonality
of what we do in the kitchen follows the temperature and sensations you
feel on the deck,” Fuller says.
Dining al fresco just reminds my wife
and me of being somewhere else.
So it goes at Harris Grill on Ellsworth
Avenue in Shadyside, where the patio is legendary
and sales almost triple once the
weather gets warm enough to eat outside,
says co-owner Alex Fruzynski. They even
have to double their staff every summer to
handle their patio business, which presents
the logistical challenge of training new
employees at the busiest time.
In the hot summer months, a party of
two that comes to Harris Grill early in the
evening often ends up as a table crammed
with more than 10 friends several hours
later. Fruzynski recalls his own frequent
late-night visits to the patio during his college
days after he finished work. “It was
invariably one of our top choices,” he says.
“It’s always been a popular place to go.”
Brothers Robert and Michael Uricchio
always had outdoor dining in mind when
they purchased the Cross Keys Inn on
Dorseyville Road. Technically, the former
stagecoach inn is located in Indiana
Township, just across the border from Fox
Chapel, which Robert Uricchio says is just
a 20-minute drive from his Squirrel Hill
residence despite its remote feeling.
“Living in the city and coming out
here to the country, the evenings are just
really, really nice—even on a hot day,” he
says. “From the moment we first looked at
it, we thought this was going to be a great
place to have a patio and just knew it
would be popular.”
How prescient. Cooler temperatures
than the city, a breeze coming off the hillside,
a view of the setting sun, deer appearing
from nearby Beechwood Farms Nature
Reserve, sipping a glass of Sauvignon Blanc
with the grilled Tasmanian salmon and basmati
rice—no wonder nearly half of their
business comes from the East End.
Across the river, you’ll also find the
Baja Bar and Grill at the Fox Chapel Yacht
Club. They come by boat (and by car)—by
the hundreds on weekends. It’s “dock and
dine” at this popular river hotspot, where
on peak summer days, there may be 450
boats at the marina.
“This bar is one of only three bars on the
river that you can actually boat to in the
Pittsburgh area,” says co-owner Jim Schwartz
of Squirrel Hill, who spends the weekends
with his wife on their houseboat. “It’s a great
way to take advantage of this scenic natural
resource.”
There are shaded areas to hang out on the
gigantic deck, but for the most part, this
crowd is not afraid of being out in the sun.
Live music on Saturday nights and Sunday
afternoons makes for an exhilarating outdoor
venue, where both good times and the river
just keep flowing. And you don’t have to be a
yacht club member to join the fun.
Fun is also what you’ll find at Carnivores,
an Oakmont restaurant and sports bar where
there’s a TV in every booth and giant screens
that broadcast all the Pittsburgh sports action
and more. But the excitement doesn’t stop
inside.
Carnivores offers seating for about 40 on a
covered front patio, with heaters that allow
you to be outside year-round while watching
your favorite teams play and enjoying the delicious
burgers, pizza, and sandwiches with a
cold brew. “We were out there for the
Superbowl and March Madness,” says owner
John Keefe, who installed push-button glass
garage doors for easy access.
The games continue at JD’s Restaurant and
Pub on Saxonburg Boulevard in Glenshaw,
where a cabana bar hidden behind pine trees is
complete with two white sand volleyball
courts, two horseshoe pits, and an outdoor
pool table. Customers can order food from the
restaurant and carry it outside for league volleyball
or a pick-up match with friends. The
courts even have bleacher seats and grandstand
benches in the hillside for spectators.
“It’s away from the normal, from the
everyday,” new owner John Scott III says.
“You’re not just sitting on the patio. It’s kind of
like being at the shore, like taking a mini-vacation.”
In addition to revamping the restaurant’s
menu, renovating the inside dining area, and
renaming the place (look for it to soon become
Gators Grille), Scott is building another more
formal patio. “There, you’ll have a server and
eat off of plates and drink out of wine glasses,
as opposed to the very informal beach-like feel
of the cabana,” he says.
The Bagel Factory, which offers sidewalk
seating at its popular Squirrel Hill and
Shadyside locations, will again be servicing
two other major outdoor venues this summer.
Music lovers attending the Bach,
Beethoven and Brunch classical music series at
Mellon Park in Point Breeze may choose to
supplement their picnic basket with fare from
The Bagel Factory, the on-site vendor for the
Sunday concerts. And from its Schenley Plaza
kiosk in Oakland, the eatery offers a limited
menu of breakfast bagels, bagel sandwiches,
simple salads, pastries, and drinks to the university
crowd and families soaking in their fair
share of Vitamin D.
“We are also a wholesale company. So it’s
really no problem to stock the kiosk three or
four times a day,” co-owner June Feldstein
says.
You’ll also get copious sunshine sitting at
the sidewalk tables in front of Cappy’s Café in
Shadyside, says owner Bryan Carey, who
recently introduced a new menu at this neighborhood
gathering place that is celebrating 30
years.
“Walnut runs east to west, so the way we are
situated, the sun comes up and sets all over our
patio,” Carey says. “Some people who really like
sun will sit out there all day. It’s just a nice place
to hang out, and we are really low key.”
As soon as the weather gets warm, regulars
who hibernate during the winter reappear
at Cappy’s to soak up the rays—and
they usually bring company. “A couple people
might show up at first and then they text
their friends and pretty soon the patio is
filled,” Carey says.
The outside tables are especially crowded
on the Sunday morning of the Pittsburgh
Marathon, when spectators enjoy front-row
seats to cheer on the runners as they snake their way through Shadyside just after the
halfway point.
When she is on her break at the East End
Food Co-op Café in Point Breeze, Lindsay
McKee likes to take her lunch outside from
the café’s salad bar. “We get really great sunlight
in the afternoon,” McKee says. “And my
break is long enough that I can enjoy my time
outside by reading a little bit of my book,
hanging out, and people-watching.”
Co-op member services manager, Kara
Holsopple, sees the irony. “It’s a shame people
are taking this healthy food from the café
to the sidewalk and looking at something that’s not green,” she says, referring to the
“view” of Meade Street. “We are trying to
change that.”
Holsopple says outreach coordinator Berry
Breene, who spearheads public art projects for
The Sprout Fund, will be directing volunteers
as they paint a mural on the industrial building
across the street to “improve the feel of the
neighborhood and make that block more welcoming.”
The smells wafting from the Ruggeri’s
Food Shoppe grill go a long way toward making
Squirrel Hill more welcoming. From May
through October, the aroma of burgers,
kabobs, grilled veggies, and house-made Italian
sausage tantalizes the neighborhood and draws
in more than 150 people for lunch, says coowner
Joya Burkholder, who mans the grill.
With the tables at capacity, “people are sitting
on the wall, and the workmen are in their
trucks with their windows rolled down,” she
says. The grill is open Tuesdays and Thursdays
from 11:30 to 2. “The infrequency helps retain
its popularity,” Burkholder says. “There
wouldn’t be the anticipation.”
There used to be hue and cry when grill
day was cancelled due to rain. Problem solved.
“That’s why we got the pop tent, so we can
grill on drizzly days,” Ruggeri’s co-owner
James Devers says.
When the proprietors of Walnut Grove
first considered making the move two years
ago from the Fox Chapel Plaza on Freeport
Road in O’Hara Township to The Waterworks
mall across the street, the chance to expand to
a space that had a large patio was key. “The
opportunity to offer outdoor dining was definitely
a factor,” says Matt Turbiner, one of the
restaurant’s four owners. The team also owns,
among other eateries, Shady Grove in
Shadyside, where the sidewalk tables are the
first to fill up in nice weather.
“The success of the
outdoor seating in
Shadyside only confirmed
my partners’ and
my belief that Pittsburgh
won’t miss an opportunity
to enjoy a sunny day,”
notes Turbiner, who says
that future locations in
the works will also
include outside seating.
“Not only does it provide
a substantial boost in revenue,
it aids in creating
the energy we strive for in
any of our restaurants.”
Joe and Missy Tambellini are
hoping for similar energy and success
from the two-story addition being planned at Joseph Tambellini
Restaurant in Highland Park, including a lower level with sliding glass
doors opening to the outside and a rooftop terrace overlooking Bryant
Street.
“At home we never eat inside in the summer, and when we go out, we
look for place where we can sit outside, so we thought, why not do that?”
Missy Tambellini says. Her husband chuckles while concurring they will
have to sell a bundle of tagliolini and meatballs to help finance the project.
“And wine, steaks, and fish,” she adds.
The couple jokes that maybe the new
open spaces will attract more of a young
and hip crowd, to balance the “hip replacement
crowd” that frequents the formal
restaurant.
“I see the mindset just being a little bit
more relaxed, outdoorsy sort of atmosphere
compared to the existing formal restaurant,”
Joe Tambellini says. “Right now we
are sympathetic to people waiting for their
table. There’s nowhere to go before dinner
to just sit and relax and have a cocktail.”
Plum Pan Asian Kitchen in the
EastSide complex in East Liberty is also
adding outdoor seating this summer. The
inconvenience from the construction along
Penn Circle South has paid off in the form
of a new, wider sidewalk in front of the
restaurant that can seat up to 30.
“We don’t have enough seating to
accommodate the crowds on Friday and
Saturday, so this will help,” co-owner Binh
Ly says. “And when the weather’s nice, it’s
good to have outdoor seating.”
Across the street, Brgr’s rooftop patio
was already dramatic, with its view of the
towering spires of East Liberty Presbyterian
Church. And now co-owners Rick Stern, a
Fox Chapel resident, and executive chef
Brian Pekarcik have added a canopy-type
awning to make the space usable for as long
as possible throughout the year. Only a
microburst, tornado, or freezing temperatures
might prevent customers from enjoying
their favorite gourmet burgers up there.
The additional seating for 55 almost
doubles the size of the restaurant. “We’ve
also added a new permanent bar to service
the deck,” says Stern, which means less wait
for Brgr’s virgin and spiked milkshakes.
For Smallman Street Deli owners Jeff
Cohen and Bill Wedner, dining al fresco began
by happenstance rather than by plan. “When
we opened the original restaurant in the Strip
District, we never thought about outdoor dining,
but as a natural progression, we just started
to put tables and chairs outside and that’s
the first place anyone wants to sit,” Wedner
says. “So when we came up to Squirrel Hill, it
was a prerequisite to have outdoor dining.”
At their Murray Avenue location, a covered
front patio is separated from the inside by
glass and seats about 24—or more for parties.
“It’s pretty comfortable to have a few beers and
a bite to eat and just sit out there and enjoy the
weather on a summer evening,” Wedner says.
Sidewalk seating has been a mainstay at
Shadyside Market for the past 15 years. “I even
notice people coming in the morning with
something from the bakery down the street or
a coffee at Starbucks who like to sit at my
tables,” “says Dominic Mineo, who owns the
Walnut Street institution with his sister, Sara.
“Doesn’t bother me! Now if it’s at lunchtime
that might be a different story.”
At that hour, the market is packed with
customers who have placed their order inside
at the deli counter and are waiting for their
sandwiches, salads, and more at one of the
sidewalk tables. “It’s just such a nice atmosphere,”
Mineo says. “And suppliers give me
umbrellas, which gives them advertising, so it
works out well. And who doesn’t like to sit
outside in the summertime?”
At nearby Girasole on Copeland Street, the charming patio is transformed during
warm weather into a vibrant garden-like setting
with flowers and planters—“a garden
party every day,” describes owner Patti
Girasole. Some customers say if they close
their eyes, they feel like they are in South
Beach or even Italy. But much of the fun, of
course, also comes from the time-honored pastime
of people-watching.
“We get the Shadyside people coming by
dressed in all sorts of different, beautiful outfits
and we have the people that go to yoga
across the street and we have people strolling
their children and walking their dogs,”
Girasole says. “It’s a great spot for peoplewatching.
And that goes both ways because
the people passing by like to see the diners.”
Indeed, the benefits of dining al fresco
extend to the whole neighborhood, says Sheri
Rice, who owns Luke and Mike’s Frontporch
in Aspinwall with her husband, Billy, a longtime
restaurateur. “It just brings a nice ambience
to the whole area, making Aspinwall a
cool spot to go,” Rice says.
The namesake front porch of their new
eatery can seat more than 30 under the wooden
trusses of the old Commercial Avenue train
station. Rice had her sights set on a different
kind of outdoor experience—the kind with
sand, a beach umbrella, and fruity drink—after
she and her husband sold their last restaurant.
But the beautiful porch gave him different
ideas. “I was all set on retiring, but Billy didn’t
want to hang up his hat once he found this
site,” she says. “He really loves what he does.”
For all its pleasures, dining al fresco is not
without its risks, especially in Pittsburgh, says
Sheree Goldstein, owner of Square Café,
which serves breakfast and lunch daily in
Regent Square.
“Because of our seasonal issues, I think
Pittsburgh restaurant owners feel limited in
what we can invest in outdoor seating,”
Goldstein says. “It costs a lot of money to outfit
the whole outside. It’s like outfitting the
indoor dining room—tables, tabletop items, peothe
service staff, training, everything. For us it
doubles what we are doing.”
Still, Goldstein wouldn’t have it any other
way. “Customers seem to talk to each other
more readily outside,” she says. “And people
waiting in line for a table like to look at the
food coming out the door, so it provides a
much more open and interactive ambience.
Whatever it costs us is worth every moment,
every enjoyment we get.”
At Avenue B on Centre Avenue in
Shadyside, outdoor dining has an urban feel,
and this summer, customers can cool off with
infused lemonade and tea while enjoying creative
American cuisine. Sometimes, though,
the sidewalk tables are temporarily occupie by folks waiting at the nearby bus stop, chef
and co-owner Chris Bonfili says.
“We have to ask people to vacate our seats
pretty frequently, especially between lunch
and dinner,” he says. “I guess it doesn’t occur
to someone that a nicely set table with glassware
and silverware might not be a bus bench.
We get a lot of laughs out of that.”
Joe Jordan, the hands-on partner of Lucca
Ristorante in Oakland, is also well aware of
just about all the hazards that can befall a
restaurant offering al fresco dining. For
instance, one might wonder if the tables and
chairs ever “walk off” when left out overnight.
“Smarter than that,” Jordan says.
“I’ve got marble tables. They are real
heavy. The chairs are stacked, and we
have a big, huge bike chain that goes
around them at night. They would
have to take 40 chairs.”
Weather?
“You can be out on the covered
patio when it rains, but when it’s really
a monsoon, it gets damp,” Jordan
says. “I don’t know what it is about
Craig Street, but our salads are stacked
high on plates, and sometimes when
the server walks out there with the
wind blowing up the
alley….Whoosh!”
Birthday candles?
“Birthday candles are a nightmare.”
And reservations?
“It’s a constant battle,” Jordan
laments. “Our official policy is we
don’t take reservations for the patio. I
don’t understand what it is about people loving to eat outside, but we have a big following
who always want to be out
there…Then again, there are a lot of people
who will not sit outside…Too hot. They don’t
want to deal with the traffic, the noise, a bug,
or whatever. But 99 percent of the time it all
works out.
“My partner has broached the subject of
enclosing it full-time, but we don’t want to.
That’s kind of the neat thing about it. If it was
enclosed, what’s going to be different about it?
Do you know what I mean?”
We do. And who would want to miss the
excitement? |