Schenley Plaza is entering the holiday season
with a sparkling new restaurant, The Porch,
adding an exciting new element to the
popular Oakland green space. This striking,
full-service eatery is the latest venture by
Eat’n Park Hospitality Group, the company
that operates the Eat’n Park restaurants
that are so much a part of our community.
With East Enders at its helm and
corporate headquarters at the
Waterfront, this Pittsburgh institution
is building on a solid history and
reputation as…
Come as you are—eat in your car. That was Eat’n Park’s very first slogan.
It said it all. And come they did. In droves.
At 2 p.m. on Sunday, June 5, 1949, Larry Hatch opened the Pittsburgh
area’s first drive-in. The tiny South Hills restaurant had just 13 seats inside.
That’s because the action was happening outside, where 10 bustling carhops
served guests in their cars.
With the opening-day menu featuring a double-decker hamburger for
40 cents and free ice cream sundaes, the restaurant was so popular that it
caused an enormous traffic jam. Six ours after opening, Hatch and his staff
had to close to regroup, as they just couldn’t handle the business.
The drive-in was an instant smash hit. After all, the United States
was in the midst of a post-war car craze, and folks were on the road to
see and be seen in their snazzy convertibles, coupes, sedans, woodies,
and roadsters.
About a year earlier, Hatch, then the general manager of Pittsburgh’s
Isaly’s restaurant chain, had learned about Frisch’s Big Boy restaurant
with car service in Cincinnati. He went to Ohio to see it for himself and
immediately recognized the potential. A flier announcing Eat’n Park’s opening day on June
5, 1949, promoted a free ice cream sundae with any
purchase.
Hatch presented Henr y Isaly with the
idea, but according to Brian Butko’s history
of Isaly’s, the restaurant owner declined. “I
don’t want any part of them,” Isaly said. “You’ll go broke before the first winter.”
So Hatch went out on his own as a Big
Boy licensee under the name Eat’n Park.
By 1951, there were five Eat’n Parks in
Pittsburgh, with managers largely recruited
from Isaly’s. Indeed, the restaurant inherited
the best elements of Isaly’s—good value and
fun in a neighborhood setting, where smiles
were common. After all, Isaly’s brought us
Klondikes, chipped chopped ham, and the
rainbow skyscraper ice cream cone.
But why not Park’n Eat? Logically, a customer
parks first, then eats. However, in the late 1940s, “park & eat” was as common a
sight as “drive-thru” is today and couldn’t be
copyrighted. Hatch cleverly decided to reverse
it to Eat’n Park, got it trademarked, and the
catchy name stuck.
The first McDonald’s opened in
Pittsburgh in 1957, and Hatch’s son-in-law,
Bob Moore, had no doubt that “walk-ups”
would spell the end of carhops. The service
was faster because they cooked ahead of
time—plus they had a cheaper menu, lower
payroll, and customers didn’t have to tip.
By the late 1960s, Eat’n Park, with 25
restaurants, had to decide whether to remain
in the carhop business, compete in fast food,
or eliminate car service and use the excess
parking lot space to convert to larger restaurants
and coffee shops. They took the latter
route. The company upgraded many of those
coffee shops in the early 1970s, while also
seeking new sites to build the family-style
restaurants for which they are known today.
In 1973, Jim Broadhurst, who thought
he would always be a banker, was persuaded
by Hatch to leave his post as a commercial
lending officer at Pittsburgh National Bank,
where one of his accounts was Eat’n Park.
He was named executive vice president and
treasurer of the chain of 33 restaurants,
many of which still had carhops. Appointed
president two years later, Broadhurst would
oversee the discontinuation of the last car
service on December 26, 1977.
As a Big Boy licensee until 1976, Eat’n
Park enjoyed an arrangement of paying one
dollar a year for use of the “Big Boy” name.
But after Marriott bought Bob’s Big Boy, it
expected up to two percent of the revenue
from each Big Boy hamburger sold.
“Since we were known in Pittsburgh as
Eat’n Park and had very few Big Boy signs,
all we needed to do was change the name of
the sandwich,” Broadhurst remembers. Thus
the “Superburger” was born and remains a
favorite today, earning the title of “Best
Traditional Burger” at the 2010 National
Hamburger Festival.
On September 20, 1976, the Squirrel
Hill Eat’n Park opened at its current location
on Murray Avenue (formerly home to
Modern Curtain & Rug, which moved
down the street and later became Weisshouse
in Shadyside.) Broadhurst recalls it being the
first new restaurant in the area to feature live
plants as part of the décor. He called Carole
Horowitz of Squirrel Hill, who had just
launched the landscape company Plantscape.
Observing that the front window had maxi mum sun exposure, she proposed a cactus
garden.
“Jim was such an innovator, as there were
no live plants in restaurants at the time,” says
Horowitz, whose business still installs and
maintains Eat’n Park’s plants, including those
at the corporate headquarters, which has been
located at The Waterfront in Homestead since
2000.
Beginning in the 1970s, Eat’n Park restaurants
installed six-seater booths, which were
unusual in the industry, but designed so the
whole family could sit together and enjoy each
other’s company. Broadhurst had been president
for five years when, in 1980, he
approached Fred Rogers and his staff at Family
Communications for advice on further
enhancing the family experience by improving
the children’s menu.
“Families were so critically important to
Fred, and his mission was similar to ours in
trying to improve children’s interactions with
their families,” Broadhurst says.
The two companies began to collaborate
on facilitating communication within the
family and making kids feel special while having
fun. As general manager of Family
Communications, Squirrel Hill resident Basil
Cox was assigned to lead the project, which
involved creating placemats to color, as well as
award-winning children’s menus in the form
of flip books and those that folded into threedimensional
shapes.
As a result of the successful relationship,
Cox was hired as director of
marketing for Eat’n Park in 1984.
That same year, Broadhurst
approached Hatch (who was nearing
retirement), proposing that,
should the business ever be for
sale, he would like to be considered
as a buyer. “The deal was made at
that time, right there, that morning—
the price and everything,” says
Broadhurst, still amazed.
Broadhurst became chairman and CEO
and promoted Moore to president. As the
chain grew to 80 restaurants, including expansions
into Ohio and West Virginia, perhaps
the most astounding phenomenon was the
rollout of the Smiley cookie.
As Broadhurst, who has lived in Squirrel
Hill for 18 years, tells the story, he grew up in
Titusville, Pennsylvania, and would stop at
Warner’s bakery on his way home from Main
Street Elementary School to buy a round sugar
cookie with a painted smiley face for a nickel.“I bought so many cookies, my friends started
calling me ‘Cookie,’” he recalls.
In 1985, with the idea of having Eat’n
Park make the very same sugar cookie,
Broadhurst enlisted the help of Warner’s bakery
and Eat’n Park product developer John
Vichie to duplicate the recipe for high-quantity
production. Then he contacted Ed Byrnes,
a Shadyside resident and third-generation
owner of bakery supplier Byrnes & Kiefer, to
make both the precise cookie dough mix and
icing in bulk.
That marked the beginning of Eat’n
Park’s efforts to establish a bakery in
each restaurant, and today customers
pick up Smiley cookies and other
beloved favorites like honey buns,
brown bread, and grilled stickies.
Smiley is now celebrating 25
years, over which time Eat’n Park has
sold or given away 100 million of the
trademarked cookies and come to be
known as “the place for smiles.” Twelve million
cookies are produced annually. For the
last Super Bowl alone, orders were filled for
600,000 cookies trimmed in black and gold
icing. Custom-designed cookies are now
available online at www.smileycookie.com for
shipment anywhere in the country. And now
there is a new mini-Smiley cookie, with
fewer than 100 calories.
The smaller cookie is one component of
LifeSmiles, an initiative developed by an
employee team championed by Broadhurst’s
wife, Suzy, who recently retired after 17 years
as director of corporate giving. In 2010, the
company pledged to contribute $1 million
and 20,000 volunteer hours over the next
five years toward promoting healthier eating
and more physical activity for kids and their
families.
Suzy Broadhurst realizes people are still
going to order French fries, but she prefers
there be an alternative. “We thought some
families may not want their kids to have a
great big cookie, so we came up with the mini-
Smiley,” she says. “And now you have a choice
of receiving a big Smiley cookie, a mini-
Smiley, or an apple at the end of your meal.”
Following some very profitable years in the
1990s, the timing was right for the company
to diversify to continue to meet its goal of 10
to 20 percent growth in annual sales and earnings.
In 1996, Eat’n Park made its initial
investment in CURA Hospitality, which provides
more than 50 accounts with foodservice
for patients in hospitals and residents in senior
living communities. Eat’n Park Hospitality
Group purchased CURA outright in 1999.There has been further growth since all
three of Broadhurst’s sons have joined the family
business.
When his father called him in 1996, Jeff
Broadhurst was happily working in Chicago at
Federated Investors. But the offer to head up
sales for a new venture called Parkhurst Dining
was too compelling to pass up. He says the
transition from selling mutual funds to selling
foodservice seemed natural to him. Now with 47 accounts, Parkhurst provides contract dining
services for institutions such as Chatham
University and Carnegie Museums of
Pittsburgh, as well as corporations like PNC
Bank and Google.
Since 2008, Jeff Broadhurst has been
CEO of Eat’n Park Hospitality Group, which
encompasses the company’s three integrated
business divisions. The 42-year-old Shadyside
resident says Eat’n Park is a very different place
from when he worked part-time as a grill cook
during his high school years. “Since the time I
really knew it, Eat’n Park has evolved through
my dad’s intuition,” he says.
That evolution brought the youngest
Broadhurst brother back to Pittsburgh in
2003. As the director of concept development,
Mark Broadhurst, 36, of Shadyside, used his
experience as director of operations at
Kahunaville, a Delaware-based restaurant
chain, to launch two Pittsburgh restaurants
that are a departure from the traditional Eat’n Park model. In 2006 came SixPenn Kitchen,
an upscale eatery in Downtown’s Cultural
District that remains a pre-show favorite
among theatergoers. More recently, in partnership
with the Pittsburgh Parks Conservancy,
he led the team that developed The Porch, a
new neighborhood bistro located at Schenley
Plaza in Oakland.
“Eat’n Park restaurants have a lot of character,”
he says. “But I enjoy places with a little
more cutting-edge food and a higher energy
that comes with the alcohol and beverage side
of the business.”
Brooks Broadhurst, 40, of Mt. Lebanon,
was actually the first brother to return home to
work for the company. He came 16 years ago,
after working for Great American Restaurants
in Washington, D.C. In his role as senior vice
president of food and beverage, he oversees
distribution, energy purchase, menu development,
online business, and food and beverage
procurement, including FarmSource—the
company’s initiative to buy from local farms.
With a few taps on his calculator, he estimates
that each year the corporation purchases
13 million eggs, 20 million slices of bacon,
2 million pounds of beef, and the ingredients
to bake nearly 100,000 strawberry pies.
Once upon a time, sales of $600 meant a
good day for one of the Eat’n Park drive-ins.
Today, total annual sales—including the 75
Eat’n Park restaurants and all of the Parkhurst
and CURA accounts—are in the hundreds of
millions. To think that the company serves 50
million meals each year is somewhat mindboggling,
concedes Jim Broadhurst.
For more than 25 years, many of those
meals have been served up at the Squirrel Hill
Eat’n Park by Susie Cookson, whose four children
have worked there, too. “I’ve been here
longer than the Smiley cookie,” laughs
Cookson, until recently a Squirrel Hill resident.
And she cares about her regulars. “We
always tell our older guests to let us know
when they are going away so we won’t worry
about them,” she explains.
“We are like family,” says Theresa
Heinold, a 24-year veteran server and service
supervisor, who works the daylight shift with
Cookson. There are closer locations to her
home in Crafton, but she doesn’t mind the commute, which involves catching two buses
each way. “I’m just very comfortable here,”
Heinold says. “This is my second home. I
would never go anyplace else.”
It’s a common refrain among the 9,000
employees of Eat’n Park, as well as the restaurant’s
dedicated patrons. Just ask Joan
Humphrey.
“When my children ask where I want to
go for my birthday, I always say ‘Eat’n Park,’”
says Humphrey, 78, of Squirrel Hill, who
remembers having a Big Boy at the former
Eat’n Park on Washington Boulevard. Now
she is a fan of the breakfast buffet.
“Oh my word,” she exclaims. “It’s to die
for. It has everything I like—scrambled eggs,
bacon, sausage, pancakes, and corned beef
hash. And the price is right.” But the ultimate
for Humphrey is to have dinner and then
enjoy her Smiley cookie during a movie at the
Manor Theatre.
Both the Broadhurst family and the company
take pleasure in giving more than their
fair share. Committed to donating more than
five percent of pre-tax corporate profits to
charities, their goodwill and philanthropy
have been spread far and wide for many years.
Hundreds of organizations—including
Children’s Hospital of Pittsburgh of UPMC,
The Children’s Institute, the Pittsburgh Area
Jewish Committee, The Children’s Home of
Pittsburgh, the Women’s Center & Shelter of
Greater Pittsburgh, as well as numerous other
United Way agencies—have been beneficiaries
of their generosity.
“We have probably touched everyone in
this community at some point or another,”
Suzy Broadhurst says.
Indeed, the Broadhurst family has as much
fun giving as it does innovating.
Demonstrating the company’s commitment
to conservation and sustainability, the
Waterworks Eat’n Park near Fox Chapel is the
region’s first restaurant to have LEED gold certification,
featuring recycled construction
materials and a solar reflective roof. Its wind turbine generates enough electricity to power
its exterior and parking lot signage, and, like
all Eat’n Park restaurants, it recycles cooking
oil for use as biofuel.
From espresso to outdoor seating, living
walls to green roofs, the company stays on top
of its game. Soon half of the restaurants will
have drive-thru service. “I guess we’ve almost
come full circle,” says Jim Broadhurst, amused
when asked if “drive-thru Eat’n Park” wasn’t
an oxymoron.
“The conventional wisdom in the restaurant
business is that you can’t be all things to
all people,” says Cox, who retired as president
in 2006 and still serves on the board. “I think
Eat’n Park is a strong argument to the contrary.
We’ve thrived on satisfying our customers
24/7, with a full menu, full service,
eat-in or take-out, breakfast anytime, buffets
and bakeries, steak and liver, pot roast and
cod—even poached eggs, which almost no
other restaurant will prepare. Jim never wanted
to cut back. Only add on and move forward
and do whatever it takes to make the
customer happy.”
So what’s next?
“We have been working on a spin-off of
Eat’n Park that will be geared toward going
into higher density, urban locations,” Mark
Broadhurst says. “We want to take what people
really love about Eat’n Park restaurants and
put that into a new package that will be a little
louder, have a little more energy, and be
something that can go into Oakland, South
Side, Shadyside, where we have never been
able to put in a real traditional 7,000 squarefoot
Eat’n Park.”
One thing is certain. Whatever Eat’n
Park decides to do next, we’ll be waiting—
and smiling.
Special thanks to Bob Moore, former president of
Eat’n Park, for his unpublished history “Welcome
to Eat’n Park, the Early Days,” and to Brian
Butko, author of “Klondikes, Chipped Ham &
Skyscraper Cones.” |